By the Glass Awards 2013
This award goes to the most well-priced and versatile wines on the Gold List, as selected by a panel of top sommelier tasters: wines that are great on their own, but will also put in a good performance with a wide range of dishes.
‘By the Glass wines have to sell on their name,’ explained Hakkasan’s Christine Parkinson. ‘You have to be able to drink them on their own or with food, and they have to have immediate appeal and a good price.’
In a sense, what we have ended up with here is a mini wine list – a list within a list, if you like – complete with sparkling wine, three whites, three reds and a rosé. If you wanted to put together an eight-bin wine list that could work for a tiny restaurant or a pub, the wines opposite would be perfect.
‘They’re a good balance of Old and New World, from super-cheap to slightly more aspirational,’ said Parkinson. ‘And the value for money throughout is outstanding.’
‘You have to be able to drink these wines on their own or with food, and they have to have immediate appeal and a good price.’ Christine Parkinson, Hakkasan
Taking more time than most has given this classic blend of Champagne varietals from the Dorset coast the texture and complexity to be much more than a superficial sparkler. ‘There’s custard and croissant on the nose,’ said Luigi Buonanno of Etrusca Restaurants. ‘Great acidity and a clean finish with citrusy notes.’ Getting inspired, he suggested spaghetti carbonara as a food match. And why not.
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2010, Stellenbosch, South Africa
£6.94 @ Matthew Clark
What can we say – not one, not two, but three special awards: Food Match, Critics' Choice and this, a By the Glass – this is 2012’s most garlanded wine. And at this price with this depth, aromas and flavour, you can see why. If you’d like something complex yet cool, food friendly yet textured enough to go solo, try Johann Joubert’s bush vine, barrel fermented Chenin Blanc.
Yealands Estate Pinot Gris 2010, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
£8.08 @ Liberty Wines
The richness allied with subtle aromatics made this a versatile By the Glass winner. Likely to appeal because of its elegance, equally its texture and clean tropical fruit flavours give it the credentials to match white meat and fish dishes, Californian salads and lightly spiced Thai recipes.
Bestué Rosado 2010, Somontano, Spain
£7.83 @ Enotria
Just what the doctor ordered – and what the hilly parts of Spain can do brilliantly: an honest, vibrant rosé, not ashamed to match fresh fruit with crisp acidity and a vivid hue. Highly food friendly too.
Boutinot, Soldier’s Block Shiraz 2010, McLaren Vale, South Australia
£5.25 @ Boutinot
Soldier’s Block Shiraz does it again: Critics’ Choice last year, By the Glass and Food Match this – is there anything Boutinot’s friendly, generously fruited Shiraz cannot do? It doesn’t seem so. Its savoury sophistication gives away its roots – the cooler districts of McLaren Vale, renowned for their fine Shiraz.
A Rioja Reserva at a seriously strong price, the perfect balance between savour and spice, and dried fruits and ‘excellent tannin management’, makes this a highly attractive proposition for traditional wine lovers – and those partial to lamb in all forms.
PERFECT PUB PAIR
Veranza Chardonnay 2010, Aragón, Spain
£4.32 @ Grupo Codorníu
Friendly and aromatic, our judges felt this was so cheery that it would make one half of an ideal pub pairing. Something with enough stone fruit flavour and light, citrusy crispness either to fly solo or to match casual dining or bar snacks. The original no brainer.
Boutinot, 58 Guineas Claret Bordeaux Rouge 2010, Bordeaux, France
£4.95 @ Boutinot
A traditional Bordeaux blend without the price tag, this, the third vintage of Boutinot’s own blend, has red crunchy fruit alongside supple tannins on a medium framework. But don’t let its elegance fool you: it’s very at home with a multitude of dishes, from barbecues and pizzas to a true Hungarian goulash. Enjoy!