Carmenère
Rather as they have with Pinot, Chile’s winemakers seem to be really getting the hang of Carmenère. That’s not a back-handed complement, incidentally, because it isn’t an easy grape to get right. Too much of the green character and it’s like drinking asparagus; too ripe and it could be anything.
The best examples here walked that tightrope rather neatly, with softness, lift and a little Cab Franc-like leafiness, often at ‘stock me now’ prices.
Admittedly, not all our tasters could see the need for an entry-level Carmenère, but plenty could, not least because it’s a grape variety that people recognise. It’s also, handily, one that works well with curry – so it could be a good addition for gastropubs.
Interesting, by the way, to see our first non-Chilean medal with this grape: Chateau Changyu-Castel’s Cabernet Gernischt from Ningxia in China.
From The Tasting Teams
‘Some were too extracted, too ripe and high in alcohol. They should be more approachable and fresher in style.’ Erik Simonics, Annabel’s
‘The best thing was the price – there was amazing value for money here. It’s a variety that’s becoming more well known, so it should be on a list. Gianluca Provenzani, Belmond Cadogan Hotel
‘The best ones had this Cabernet Franc-like leafiness with some ripe, dark berry fruits. You’re looking for good use of oak here to round off some nice ripe flavours that have that attractive green edge.’ Tom Forrest, team leader
‘At their best these are easy-drinking, non-confrontational wines that go well with anything. Some would have gone well with tandoori lamb.’ Antóin UáRuairc, UK Midland Sommelier
‘I felt these were very green, often finishing with a stalkiness. The entry-level examples would have made good by-the-glass options though.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘These worked better at the cheaper end, when they just let the fruit do what the fruit wanted to do.’ Dave Cushley, Prestonfield House