Q&A: Harry Ballmann, beverage manager, Mana, Manchester

The inimitable Harry Ballmann – charismatic, dynamic and outspoken - has built a career that spans Michelin-starred dining rooms, retail, judging and off-trade consultancy. This breadth and depth of experience, rare even among the UK’s top tier of sommeliers, has shaped a philosophy rooted less in personal preference than in context, the psychology of labels and value. Now beverage manager at the one-star Mana in Manchester, Ballmann remains a powerful voice in the industry calling for greater diversity and inclusion. Over an ice-cool glass of pilsner – obligatory after a busy service – he sits down with James Lawrence to put the world to rights. 

What vintage are you?

1995, so Rhône and Bordeaux are my go-to regions for birth-vintage drops.

Where did you grow up?

Around Oxfordshire, in a tiny village.

Forgive the cliché, but seminal wine memory?

[Laughs} All good - these are important questions! Selling (and therefore tasting) my first First Growth at Wiltons: a 1961 Lafite. The client was torn between that and a 1994 Mouton. There was only one right answer. That was followed by my first DRC, and my first Pétrus – surprisingly, the latter was a very recent event. I don’t think you ever forget these moments as a sommelier, because they give you benchmarks and perspectives on what many producers aspire to achieve. 

Since your career began, you’ve moved between floor service, retail and consultancy – how did those transitions change the way you make purchasing decisions?

It’s certainly helped both my palate and commercial acumen become more rounded. The more experience, the better - no? I’m always of the mindset it’s about the customer’s (or guest’s) needs first and foremost, rather than satisfying my personal taste or ego – and that doesn’t change regardless of which channel I’m buying for.

You run public tastings about ‘cult’ and fine wines – how do you distinguish genuine quality from hype when a producer’s reputation outpaces the drinking experience? 

I could write an essay on this. Psychology ultimately plays a central role in the way we perceive, and therefore enjoy wine; whether that’s the environment, the moment or the label itself creating a preconceived idea of what we’re about to open and taste. So naturally, once you see the label, it becomes harder to assess true quality objectively, because your mind has already decided that the wine is “good”.

Each year I host a paulée for a group of collectors, and they bring truly phenomenal bottles of wine, all served blind. The results are often shocking and promote lengthy debate. It’s humbling - the juice speaks first and foremost, beyond the label. When bottles like 2002 Echezeaux DRC in magnum aren’t the best wine of the afternoon, I often take a moment to reflect and readjust my preconceptions. 

That said, we cannot disregard price when thinking about enjoyment. Is the wine worth it? Does it justify its cost in pleasure? If the answer is yes, then perhaps “genuine quality” doesn’t necessarily matter.

The pandemic pushed many sommeliers into online retailing and digital tastings. What permanent changes to wine buying and consumer education do you think came from that shift?

I’ve seen a catch-22 unfold in this regard. Initially, consumers - with far more time on their hands - began experimenting with baking, knitting, wine, whatever, seemingly becoming better informed. But larger retailers quickly capitalised, steering consumers toward wines that suited their margins and supply chains at the expense of experimentation and variety. I now see lower price-to-quality ratios, less diversity and a reluctance among consumers to take risks, feeling that they have already explored the best options and found the perfect bottle for them. 

Drinkers deviate less from their usual tipples, which is ironic given how exploratory things felt early in the pandemic. Retailers reinforce this behaviour, as it obviously benefits them.

As someone who buys directly from producers for boutique channels, what are the biggest practical headaches you face today?

With my work for Home Bargains, at the more entry-level end of the market, it’s no surprise that ongoing duty increases and regulations such as EPR have caused a migraine - not just a headache. Convincing consumers to try different wine styles and take a risk in favour of higher quality, or value, is more difficult than ever. I have found that customers latch on to a single wine from one producer, which is a difficult conversation to have, since wineries want you to take a broader selection of their wines.

Diversity and inclusion remain issues in hospitality and wine. From your vantage point as a writer, judge and teacher, where is the industry actually making progress?

I feel the off-trade is far behind the on-trade where diversity is concerned; I’m still shocked when I attend tastings and the majority of folk who attend are scoffing, spluttering middle-aged men in red trousers. However, I feel the hospitality sector is starting to develop a strong culture of inclusivity, whether through movements like Queena Wong’s Curious Vines, or Be Inclusive Hospitality. Yet there is still a long way to go. Unfortunately, I think every single woman I know in wine, many of whom are outstanding professionals and tasters, face some level of adversity every time they’re at a tasting or event. I’ve witnessed mansplaining, women and people of different ethnic backgrounds being completely ignored, inappropriate behaviour – the list goes on. It’s frankly inexcusable on a personal level alone, let alone in a professional setting. So, in a sense, it pains me to say little progress is being made, relative to the issues we face. Inclusivity and diversity should be a focal point in every industry, not least wine and hospitality.

And finally - favourite non-wine tipple?

Fine cider – Calvados, too. Lemorton is a particular favourite of mine. I also really love a cold Helles larger or pilsner during summer.