Critics' Choice Awards 2014
We’ve come to describe these wines as the ‘Wow’ wines – the wines that will impress at 50 paces no matter when or where you taste them. Those that had our judges wandering around the room half speechless with the thrill of what they have just sampled.
To reach this, the ultimate distillation of quality, in the final round we ask our teams to highlight a few of their star wines. These are then re-tasted by a further panel of our top experts, and voilà – the dozen wines you have here.
From a sub-£5 Chilean Gewürz to a top-flight vintage Champagne, from the individual that rescued the winsome Malagousia variety to the pioneer who rewrote the Barossa Semillon rulebook, it’s all here. And that’s just the whites! Our reds include a lyrical Austrian red through to the classical heights of Charmes-Chambertin with a detour to Martinborough for a perfumed Pinot Noir. Finally, we bring you something completely different, as a tangy white Port wins this year’s Caspar Auchterlonie Fortified Wines Award.
These days more than ever we need the chance to marvel at what talent and the right terroir can create. Here is your opportunity.
Charles Palmer Brut 2009, Sussex, England
£24.50 @ Charles Palmer Vineyards
Once again, the English make it to this, the most coveted of awards rosters, this time with the first vintage from Charles Palmer, a new vigneron hailing from Sussex. The extra maturity made this wine stand out. Grown within a mile of the sea, and vinified by the talented Will Davenport, there’s certainly the telltale fresh acidity. But as Riccardo Giacomelli of Bocca di Lupo said, ‘There’s a very good balance of fruit and biscuity aromas, with flowers, yellow and golden apples, nuts and bread.’ Limited supplies, so catch it while you can.
Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires 1995, Champagne, France
£85.13 @ Liberty Wines
Without doubt a luxury wine, but one where our judges felt the layers of complexity more than repaid the indulgence. Named after the 2,000-year-old cellars within which the wine matures, this is crafted from four specific parcels of Chardonnay, is left to slumber for 15 years and arrives at the party ready to dazzle. ‘Stunning,’ said an almost speechless Roger Jones of The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. Enjoy the great depth of toasted nuts, butterscotch and mineral notes alongside mature tropical fruit and zesty acidity. Because (some of) your customers are worth it.
Cono Sur, Los Gansos Gewürztraminer 2013, Bío-Bío/Casablanca/Maule Valleys, Chile
£4.80 @ CyT UK
A Wow wine of a different sort – more in terms of ‘How (on earth) do they do that?’ – this wine is fresh and appealing, with engaging floral perfume of rose petals alongside honey, apricot and ginger notes. Named after Cono Sur’s famous flock of geese – the ones that keep the environmentally friendly estate pesticide-free – this is a characteristically careful blend from three valleys. As Gergely Barsi Szabó of Bread Street Kitchen says, ‘Great complexity, does the job perfectly. Outstanding value.’ Enough said.
Domaine Gerovassiliou, Malagousia 2013, Epanomi, Macedonia, Greece
£11.17 @ Hallgarten Druitt & Novum Wines
Wonderful to see this Greek pioneer honoured at the Critics’ Choice table. This fragrant and floral white from sea-facing vineyards offers up a fine seam of minerality alongside rose water and lime sorbet aromas. Partial barrel fermentation and lees maturation add elegant weight. Trained in Bordeaux by none other than Emile Peynaud, Vangelis Gerovassiliou rescued Malagousia from extinction. With this wine, we can see why.
Peter Lehmann, Margaret Semillon 2007, Barossa Valley, South Australia
£11.59 @ Hallgarten Druitt & Novum Wines
Mature Semillon is such a treat, and this gem from Barossa legend Peter Lehmann illustrates why. Named after his good lady wife, this wine sees no oak and is not released until it has reached its fifth birthday. It offers toasted sesame seeds, green apple, spice, citrus zest and a whiff of smoke. ‘With its oily texture, exquisite balance and good seam of minerality, this is both racy and gastronomic,’ said consultant sommelier Nicolas Clerc MS. Hear, hear.
Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal Reserve, Gaisberg Erste Lage Riesling 2012, Kamptal, Austria
£14.92 @ Clark Foyster Wines
Dating back to the 12th century, Schloss Gobelsburg is the oldest winery in the Danube region, fashioning beauties like this from the slopes and terraces of its estate. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are its specialities, and with the focus and precision of this ripe, complex wine, we can see why. ‘There’s so much a sense of place,’ said team leader Simon Woods. With its notes of confit lemons, bright fruit, good texture and depth, this is supremely food-friendly.
Maison du Vigneron, Domaine Durand Perron, Château-Chalon 2005, Jura, France
£21.45 @ Templar Wines
This may have been a new category to the awards, but what a way to start! From an historic property in arguably the Jura’s grand cru, comes this exciting and complex wine. Oxidative in style, this is ripe and concentrated, with a tang of nuts, flint and honey, and a very fresh finish. Match with its local bedfellow Comte cheese, or try with chicken and morels, or mushroom risotto. No wonder the judges kept returning. You will, too.
Günter & Regina Triebaumer, Blaufränkisch 2012, Burgenland, Austria
£8.75 @ Alpine Wines/Nick Dobson
With a winemaking history dating back more than 300 years, the Triebaumer family is a true Blaufränkisch specialist, as this delightfully aromatic wine illustrates. This is like a thoroughbred horse, with grace, elegance and power on a fine-tuned structure. Günter and Regina take a modern approach, with fresh black and purple plums mixing with currants on the nose and palate. Hints of vanilla mingle with velvety tannins. Supremely versatile, whether as a by-the-glass option or with light dishes of all persuasions.
Il Cascinone, Rive Barbera d’Asti 2011, Piedmont, Italy
£8.90 @ Boutinot
With great concentration and real character, Il Cascinone illustrates the heights that Barbera can reach when in the right hands. Long regarded as one of Piedmont’s gems, the Cascinone estate has been in the care of the region’s forward-looking Araldica co-operative since the late 1990s. There’s lovely purple, black and red fruit, charming fruit sweetness and velvety tannins. Traditional oak notes rub alongside herbal hints. Food tips revolve around similarly bold flavours. Even Gorgonzola gets a mention! From a true Piedmont specialist.
St Cosme, Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2013, Rhône, France
£9.41 @ Bibendum Wine
St Cosme does it again. Last year it was its Condrieu, this year it’s a well-priced Southern red. ‘This is classic Syrah – it tastes like Crozes – it deserves roast duck,’ was team leader Richard Bampfield MW’s immediate reaction. ‘Aromatic and floral, there’s fresh cooked fruit, ripe blackberries, spices and pepper, plus firm and racy tannins,’ said consultant sommelier Nicolas Clerc MS. Pair with stews or Sunday roast for starters.
Julicher, Pinot Noir 2010, Martinborough, New Zealand
£19.75 @ Berkmann Wine Cellars
Born out of hard graft at the turn of this century, Wim Julicher’s Martinborough wines continue to gather fans. Free-draining gravel allows the Pinot Noir to give of its best, and this vintage layers smoke and floral notes alongside savoury dark fruit. ‘Fresh, vibrant and perfumed. Like this. Delicate and fine. It’s elegant. I really like this,’ said an increasingly happy Hamish Anderson of The Tate Group. So do we. We think you will, too.
Vallet Frères, Charme-Chambertin Grand Cru 2001, Burgundy, France
£49.85 @ Boutinot
Pricey – yes, but splendid – oh yes! From the Vallet family, with its roots throughout the finer parts of Burgundy, and for whom the key questions are: ‘Is the wine harmonious?’ and ‘Is it fully itself?’ On the basis of this encounter: ‘Yes’ and ‘Yes’. Savoury and classic, this shows benchmark evolution with very good length. ‘Tar and truffle, cinnamon and leather, with an elegant palate, this is balanced and fresh. To be drunk NOW!!’ said consultant sommelier Nicolas Clerc MS. No problem!
Caspar Auchterlonie Fortified Wine Award
Krohn, Lágrima Fine White Port NV, Douro, Portugal
£9.00 @ Boutinot
This very special award is given in memory of one of the on-trade’s finest characters – and one of the Sommelier Wine Awards’ strongest supporters. Caspar had a love of life, an unrivalled skill with wine and a boundless love of all matters fortified, hence this award. He liked to push boundaries, too, and this is where we feel he’d have joined our judges in swooning over this.
Krohn picked up the inaugural Caspar award last year for its 1982 Colheita, but if anything, has gone one step further with this complex blend of old white Ports. Best served lightly chilled, there’s texture alongside honey, almonds, notes of eucalyptus and herbs. ‘Magnificent value, clean and fresh – a wine that can make money,’ said a happy team leader Simon Woods, while The Harrow at Little Bedwyn’s Roger Jones was already dreaming of foie gras and macaroons. Cheers Caspar!