Varietal Classics: Australian Shiraz
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 3 Bronze: 3 Commended: 4
2015 Gold: 2 Silver: 4 Bronze: 3 Commended: 4
Several tasters made the same point here: that Australian Shiraz is engaged in a toe-to-toe slugging match with Argentinian Malbec. And at the moment it’s pretty obvious which wine is winning.
This category has had a somewhat forlorn air for a number of years – as if it’s treading water – and this year was the first time since 2011 that it managed only the one Gold.
Of course, the battle over ‘which style of Shiraz to go for’ – more restrained or full-throttle Ocker Aussie fruit – is complicating matters, and nor has the strength of the Aussie dollar helped over the past few years either.
But for all the generally positive comments about the wines before them in the early stages of the competition, when it came to awarding slots on the Gold List our tasters found less to be excited about than they used to. For such a flagship style (and key price area) it should be a concern to the folk Down Under.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The sweet spot was about £9-£10. That’s where they really shone.’ Laura Rhys MS, team leader
‘Personally I preferred the lighter ones – they seemed to have more balance. But it’s tricky. Do you sell the ones that are more typical or the ones that you personally think are better made?’ Carlos Ferreira, The Sign of the Don
‘Aussie Shiraz is still a good seller across the board; whether cheap or expensive, it still sells.’ Michael Fiducia, Drake’s Restaurant
‘Personally I like that minty, spicy character in Aussie Shiraz. The more fruit-driven wines don’t have the same complexity.’ Tamas Czinki, Northcote
‘There was a wide selection of styles here, from fruit-driven to heavier styles. As a panel we were often split. Personal tastes were much more of an issue.’ Timothy Connor, Bread Street Kitchen
‘It was good to see that there is value at the lower end of this flight. Though for me the real excitement starts around the £20-£30 level.’ James Fryer, Portland
“Malbec is still the number one. But if anything can compete with it, it’s Aussie Shiraz.” Tamas Czinki, Northcote
“Aussie Shiraz is still a hot style – people like it and ask for it, and they feel confident in asking for it. The question is that Syrah versus Shiraz issue – it’s becoming more of a factor for Australia now.” Ian Howard, The White Hart Inn at Lydgate
FOOTNOTE: The price limit for the Varietal Classics category is £12 ex-VAT. Australian Shiraz can also be entered in the relevant New World Shiraz category.