Italy: South - Red, including Sicily & Sardinia
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 11 Bronze: 14 Commended: 11
2015 Gold: 4 Silver: 12 Bronze: 4 Commended: 7
A bit of a game of two halves here, Brian. The southern mainland wines played a muscular tannin-and-alcohol-fuelled game rather reminiscent of a gang of chippy 1950s Liverpudlian kids booting a can around the streets of Toxteth. Plenty of energy, in other words, but not a lot of finesse. And, often, too much oak.
From the islands, our tasters might have expected more of the same, but were actually surprised to find wines that were balanced, lifted and at times even poetic. In football commentator cliché, they ‘had a good touch for a big man’.
All of which explains why two-thirds of our Gold and Silver medals here went to Sicily or Sardinia. But if you’re looking for value for money, take a look at the Bronzes, too. There are some really good sub-£8 wines of real character in there.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The Sicilian and Sardinian flights were delicious in the two extremes. Very good value at the beginning, while the top end had a powerful focus. Sardinia has a huge role to play in Old World style. And if I knew what the last two were, I’d list them.’ Tanguy Martin, La Trompette
‘When it comes to the more expensive wines, they need to get it spot on or the prices can’t be justified.’ Tobias Brauweiler MS, Hakkasan Group
‘Quality was very high. The Sicilian and Sardinian wines was one of the best flights so far – and we’re talking about obscure grape varieties. None showed that warm alcoholic finish, and there was no reacidification.’ Olivier Marie, team leader
‘The wines from the South were too sweet, too rounded and too rich for me – no delicacy. I was expecting more elegance from Italian wines. Plus they were very expensive and would be hard to sell at those prices.’ Gabriele Galuppo, Theo Randall at the InterContinental
‘I really enjoyed the quality of the primary fruit in the Sicilian wines. They were all very clean, with well-integrated alcohol and fresh acidity. Grippy but not too hard in tannin, so good with food, and there’s enough concentration.’ Charles Van Wyk, FJB Collection
“Overall the Sicilian and Sardinian wines had good balance and some had a floral style – they were quite delicate. You could even try matching them with monkfish.” Andrés Ituarte, Avenue Restaurant
‘Finding delicacy and complexity from the South was difficult.’ Devon Pryor, Blandford Comptoir
FOOTNOTE: Includes wines from Campania, Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria.