New World: Carmenère
2017 Gold: 4 Silver: 3 Bronze: 3 Commended: 7
2016 Gold: 4 Silver: 4 Bronze: 3 Commended: 6
It’s been a long time coming, but here, finally, is something that Chile can do well: a grape variety with character, charm and an in-built USP. One, moreover, that the Chileans seem to have got their heads around.
Carmenère’s natural leafiness provides an attractive herbal lift to Chile’s exuberant fruit, and after a few years when they sought to eradicate any hint of capsicum, winemakers now seem to be able to balance the greener and richer notes to create something interesting and spicy, yet fully palatable.
The prices were good, too. In a competition where value for money is ever harder to find, to have 70% of the medal winners under £10 was hugely impressive.
Interestingly, over the past four years we’ve had 12 Gold medals – and 12 different winners, suggesting a) that there’s strength in depth with the variety, and b) that nobody masters it year after year.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘I was disappointed. I had clear and high expectations of this Carmenère category, but the winemakers were trying too hard to impress.’
Martin Lam, team leader
‘Not a bad flight. The wines were well balanced and there was lots of varietal character.’
Jade Koch, team leader
‘I don’t have any Carmenère on my list, I find the rich, powerful, extracted flavours too big for the food on my menu.’
Yohann Pinol, Wiltons
‘I liked this flight. I was looking for the purity of the variety – that herbal character and balsamic notes. I have a couple on my list at the moment. I pair them with red meat: it’s great with beef in Merlot sauce!’
Gabriel Liotta, Hakkasan Hanway Place
‘I’ve got a soft spot for Carmenère – I think it’s a juicer version of Cab Franc. You need to eat the right food with it: like fatty pork chops with rosemary potatoes. I was pleased though: the wines in this flight had good varietal character.’
Charles Pashby-Taylor, Dabbous
‘I think Carmenère is an underrated grape variety that’s seen as cheap and easy-going. Some of these were simple, young and fresh, but there’s a lot of improvement going on.’
Gaetano Giangaspero, Coya Mayfair