FRANCE: Red Burgundy
2018 Gold 1 Silver 5 Bronze 1 Commended 8
2017 Gold 3 Silver 5 Bronze 3 Commended 2
Red Burgundy is like the rich kid with a Ferrari but no job and no qualifications. It is happy to cruise around wine lists picking up listings through reputation alone, but when asked to step up to the plate, it’s extraordinary how often it fails to deliver.
Rouges have never outscored their paler sibling and never came close to doing so again this year. There were some good wines, of course there were – as there damn well should be for these prices. But it seems oddly damning that our sole Gold went to a Gamay.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Burgundy really carries with it the most burden of expectation, but we found good wines here, and some with lovely fruit character.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘Bordeaux sales might be declining drastically, but Burgundy seems to be exploding in terms of sales, as interest in Pinot Noir from consumers is quite high. It can be an unfaithful category, with the biggest variation from one bottle to another, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that these were not only exceptional but quite consistent, too.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘I was impressed to see Gamay here, although this is still a grape that needs to be discovered. But it definitely deserves to be based on this tasting, especially for those that like the biodynamic or organic style.’ Carlos Ferreira, The Don
‘I liked the sweeter, riper, more modern style that’s loved by a large number of people. At the higher prices, these were sometimes a bit awkward and angular.’ Jurijs Nemkovs, Hakkasan Mayfair
‘I always feel sorry for the Burgundian wines. They’re like pedigree Arabian horses, and have no chance to be second place, as everyone expects such good quality – especially if they go beyond the normal price points.’ Tatiana Mann, The Vine Eno Gastro Pub