New World: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux blends - South Africa
2019 Gold 2 Silver 5 Bronze 3 Commended 10
2018 Gold 3 Silver 10 Bronze 1 Commended 7
Back in 2017 we were heralding South Africa as the New World’s most exciting producer of Bordeaux varieties. Then, it had more than 20 medals, four of them Gold, and a string of good wines from cheap to expensive.
Since then, the medal count has been in steady (and somewhat puzzling) decline: just 14 medals last year (three of them Gold) down to the 10 (two of them Gold) that you see here for 2019.
Moreover, our tasters were split. Some detected a definitive Cape style and liked it, seeing it as a good Bordeaux substitute; others found nothing beyond ripe fruit and oak and mused that the real interest in South Africa is probably happening in other wine styles.
Confusingly, both points are accurate, so read the tasting notes, call in the samples and make your own mind up…
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘Stellenbosch is an area that builds on classic, ripe, full-bodied wines. Just under £20 they showed well, but none were bravely made red wines that venture out into terroir; they lean on new oak, ripeness of fruit.’ Jan Konetzki, team leader
‘Tight, spicy, smoky, meaty.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan
‘We saw the good characteristics of Stellenbosch here, where there’s always this meaty, savoury character, with a lot of dark fruit, but still some nice acidity. You can actually tell they’re from South Africa – you wouldn’t mix them up with Australia or Chile.’ Ieva Markaityte, Portuguese Concepts
‘I’m not sure whether Cab Sauv is where it’s at in terms of what’s exciting in South Africa. A little bit predictable.’ Charlie Young, team leader
‘The entry-level styles did stand out – juicy, big fruit, uncomplicated, more leathery and gamey at the top end. If I had a chef really involved in game these wines would be very well received by customers.’ Sean Arthur, Cliveden House
‘This shows what they can do in South Africa if they get their location right. They weren’t overripe or overworked. Some thought had gone into the wines, and into their sites, too. There was one Cabernet Franc that if you didn’t know it was from South Africa, you’d think it was Bordeaux.’ Tom Forrest, team leader