FRANCE: Bordeaux
2019 GOLD: 8 SILVER: 9 BRONZE: 6 COMMENDED: 18
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 6 BRONZE: 6 COMMENDED: 9
This was a wonderful performance from Bordeaux. And not just because it achieved a record number of medals, but also because of the sheer variety on offer. In the past we’ve often found that a good performance by the region has been driven by either one or other of the Left and Right Bank. But this year, we found strong wines from straight AC Bordeaux rouge, both sides of the Gironde and in the whites, too.
Indeed, you could probably argue that it was a fine performance from the blancs that took Bordeaux’s performance this year from ‘very good’ to ‘excellent’. We’ve never given out three Golds here before, and to do it with two fine wines under £10 and a stellar (pricey) Pessac-Leognan made for a strong combination.
Indeed, this ‘quality from cheap to classy’ shtick was typical of the whole region. There were fine wines from almost House Wine level right the way up to £80-£100 on a list, and at most points in between. And they weren’t stupidly expensive. Compared with Burgundy – and, increasingly, the Rhône – these looked like good, elegant wines at fair prices.
We’ve been quick to criticise Bordeaux in the past. Here it deserves all the praise that comes its way.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘We saw three styles of whites: clean-cut, light and crisp – good quaffing wines; some barrel-fermented stuff that was more food friendly; and some Semillon-based wines that were richer, more tropical, that would work well with creamy sauces. With many different price points, there are good bargains to be had here.’ Jan Konetzki, team leader
‘The AC Bordeaux were really good. If you want to build a really great wine list, entry-level Bordeaux that has good character like this is a good start.’ Chiara Sieni, Bottles Group
‘Some of the more expensive wines were like Cru Bourgeois that had been made in California. They’d thrown the world at it. Interesting wines, but it wasn’t as if they were from France.’ Michael Harrison, CuVée VIII
‘You need to describe the whites well to customers, as it’s not the tropical flavours they expect; it has toast, smokiness, creaminess, a completely different style from the other side of the world.’ Elisa Soggia, Kai Mayfair
‘The Left Bank were very classical styles all of them. For Bordeaux that’s a good thing. People know the style and they want this style of wine. If it’s different, they can be disappointed.’ Janusz Sasiadek, Bottles & Battles
‘In the North of England, I struggle with Bordeaux, people are drinking it too young. It needs a bit of education still.’ Ian Howard, consultant
‘The mid-range was great value here; £13 to £20 is the price point I’d be looking at.’ Alan Bednarski, Texture