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Winner Details

HUNGARY

2019 GOLD: 2 SILVER: 4 BRONZE: 2 COMMENDED: 3
2018 GOLD: 1 SILVER: 3 BRONZE: 1 COMMENDED: 1

Although Hungary was only marginally behind Slovenia in terms of medal count this year, the feedback was markedly different. While Slovenia was consistently high quality and affordable, Hungary was more up and down stylistically and generally more expensive.

It left for rather perplexed tasters, who were hoping for some interesting, well-priced must-lists and instead found a lot of ‘take it or leave it’ wines at prices that would make them very much a hand sell. Pick with care, on this evidence.

FROM THE TASTING TEAMS

‘A bit up and down. I wanted to find something at the lower end but they weren’t well put together enough. The lacked balance, acidity, or definition. A handful were really good, fairly different in style.’ Charlie Young, team leader

‘Their whites are in a much better state than their reds. [In the latter] there are still problems with over-oaking. If they followed the Austrian example, they’d have a much brighter future.’ Terry Kandylis, 67 Pall Mall

‘Most of the interest [in Hungary] is towards the sweet wines, I’ve tried working with the dry whites but it’s a tough sell, and I’ve had no real interest in the reds.’ Sean Arthur, Cliveden House

‘We don’t sell any Hungarian reds, we’re limited with suppliers. I would love to though. If you stand behind the wine and you’re convinced, they’ll try it, and it’s good to see when people do like them, it’s like a little personal victory.’ Anita Vighova, Manor House Hotel

Award winners

Found 11 wines

Hungary

Gizella Pince, Szil-Völgy, Furmint/Hárslevelű 2017, Tokaj, Hungary

As this was elevated to Gold, Claire Love of Loves Consultancy praised its ‘smoky, mineral and lemon aromatics, with fresh, vibrant pear and fig, as well as Braeburn apple, and a concentrated, elegant finish’, while team leader Nigel Lister described ‘banana, guava, peach and apricot notes leading to a creamy mid-palate’. Le Gavroche’s Rémi Cousin picked up ‘ripe stone fruit and an orange blossom note’, before concluding that it was ‘zingy, fresh and appealing’.

£20.78 The Wine Rascals

Bolyki, Egri Bikavér 2016, Eger, Hungary

‘An excellent all-rounder,’ began impressed team leader Charlie Young as this was awarded a well-deserved Gold, going on to describe ‘a full, dark, spicy nose, leading to a puff of small berry fruit, light tannins and great length, with a cracking finish’. Woodhead 17’s James Fryer highlighted some ‘peppery tones and chalky tannins’, while Daniel Loughlin of 20 Stories thought the combination would be ‘great with a rack of lamb’.

£12.45 Top Selection

Disznoko, Dry Furmint 2017, Tokaj, Hungary

Team leader Lionel Periner enjoyed the ‘lemon and floral aromas’ of this Silver medal-winning wine, and described the palate as ‘simple, dry and easy on the acidity’.

£10.15 González Byass

Kovács Nimród, Battonage, Chardonnay 2015, Eger, Hungary

Chiara Sieni of Bottles Group found ‘heavy bread crust notes on the nose’ and was impressed by its ‘smoky yeastiness on the palate, with vanilla notes, honey and a rather long finish’.

£13.33 Boutinot

Vida, La Vida 2013, Szekszárd, Hungary

Anita Vighova of Manor House Hotel described ‘layer upon layer of savoury notes and red fruit, with additional tobacco, cedar, blackcurrant leaf and cherry brandy, with big, bold acidity and big tannins, too’, adding that it ‘would be great with a rich stew’.

£20.00 Malux Hungarian Wine & Spirits

Heimann, Alte Reben, Kékfrankos 2016, Szekszard, Hungary

‘An incredibly pronounced nose, and very developed,’ began Sean Arthur of Cliveden House, who found ‘violet petals and dark fruit, with ripe but integrated tannins, and a toasted, persistent finish – a good food wine’.

£17.01 Top Selection Ltd

Vida, Bonsai Kadarka 2016, Szekszard, Hungary

Team leader Charlie Young described ‘an impressive wine that’s gentle but deep, with savoury aromas, good fruit definition, and some fine tannins’.

£12.20 Malux Hungarian Wine & Spirits

Szepsy, Estate, Furmint 2015, Tokaj, Hungary

‘A great wine,’ thought Rémi Cousin of Le Gavroche, with its ‘lovely phenolics and texture’. He went on to suggest that ‘with stone fruits and length’, this is a ‘wine for food’.

£22.76 Top Selection