Portugal: White, including Vinho Verde
2019 GOLD: 4 SILVER: 3 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 10
2018 GOLD: 3 SILVER: 7 BRONZE: 3 COMMENDED: 14
A game of two halves here, Brian. While this might have looked like a 2-2 draw when it came to the way the Golds were shared out, the Vinho Verde team will feel hard done by, while the ‘rest of Portuguese whites’ will be happy to escape with a metaphorical point.
If one thing has become clear over the past few years, it’s been the revival of the ‘green wine’ region at the country’s north-western edges. Vinho Verde is on a roll. Rather like Txakoli, it probably helps that its bread and butter is ‘fresh and crisp’ rather than ‘rich and buttery’. But in fact, there are rounder, more textural versions starting to appear as well – and our tasters loved them, too.
Outside of VV it’s a question of wines being more than just ‘fresh and green’ and having actual, you know, character to go with the acidity – and not enough of them managed that. But on this evidence, it’s a white region to watch, particularly for the Verdes.
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘The quality of Vinho Verde is going up and up every year. The first prices were refreshing and citrusy, the more expensive ones go very well with food. In the next five years Vinho Verde should build in a classic and a reserva range.’ Lionel Periner, team leader
‘A great representative sample across the board, that shows the new diversity. [The Adega Ponte da Barca] at £28 has complexity and elegance. People would remember it forever.’ Emanuel Pesqueira, consultant
‘There’s increasing demand for Portuguese wines.’ Charlie Carter, Ten Green Bottles
‘Barrel fermentation brings out so much complexity. Very good wines.’ Daniel Jonberger, Rockliffe Hall
‘The wines near the coast, the winemakers need to be careful. Looking for more freshness is a big mistake. You get cabbage and asparagus character in the wines – this destroyed the flight.’ Carlos Ferreira, team leader
‘Five years ago Vinho Verde was more of a tourist wine. Now around £7 you really get an amazing wine.’ Francesca Turra, Mondrian London
‘Portugal has great potential with its indigenous grape varieties. But most of our white flight were lacking concentration, typicity and excitement. They could have been from anywhere in the world.’ Diana Rollan, D&D