Home Winners > Winners 2019 > SPAIN: Rioja - Reserva & Gran Reserva

Winner Details

Spain: Rioja – Reserva & Gran Reserva

2019 GOLD: 3      SILVER: 8      BRONZE: 2      COMMENDED: 14
2018 GOLD: 3      SILVER: 10    BRONZE: 2      COMMENDED: 9

Our tasters could discuss the concept of age and Rioja for weeks and not reach any conclusions. Some like their wines fresher and more youthful (even the reservas), others are fans of the older-style oxidative wines with lots of (old) barrel age.

If we had to conduct a straw poll, we’d say that, in general, there were more fans of ‘youth and modernity’ than there were of ‘age and tradition’. So it was interesting that our only reserva Gold this year went to the oldest wine in the category. The Tarón Reserva was a 2008 – significantly older than even the oldest gran reserva. What do we learn from that? Don’t ask us, squire, we only work here…

The feedback for this category was, broadly speaking, a lot more positive than it was for the crianzas, in particular. And while only two Gold-Listed wines was a bit disappointing, it wasn’t far off the norm, while the big bulge of Silvers suggests that there’s still plenty of good stuff lurking around the banks of the Ebro for those who have the patience to look for it.

Certainly the pricing isn’t bad: £12 for a reserva is decent, while just £3 more seems to get you into gran reserva territory, with an extra couple of years in barrel and bottle.

FROM THE TASTING TEAMS

‘These used to be too muscular, but there’s less of that, and they’re more food-friendly.’ Quentin Loisel, Restaurant Sat Bains

‘There was quite a mixture of styles here. The oak treatment makes a big difference, and for me the wines can feel a bit too manipulated. The best were all of a similar style: savoury, with nice tannins and big structure, which is what people look for.’ Olivier Gasselin, Hakkasan

‘The gran reservas are like policeman – they get younger every year. They don’t taste like gran reservas – it should have oak, ripe fruit, but it should be soft on the palate, a burst of flavour and a very long finish.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader

‘Rioja that is flavoured with a lot of American oak might not be our preference, but we all acknowledge that there’s a place for them on a wine list. There were modern wines here in the sense that they used French oak, but they’re still big, chunky wines.’ Hamish Anderson, team leader

‘Those [reservas] with American oak had that sweet spice that gives them typicity. But these are definitely moving towards what the market is asking for, with more freshness and a less rustic style.’ Marco Marcuzzo, Aster Restaurant

‘The gran reservas seem more vibrant. A lot more acidity and overall freshness compared to the normal cigar box and earthy notes. It’s a welcome change.’ Timothy Connor, Heddon Street Kitchen

Award winners

Found 27 wines

Spain: Rioja: Reserva & Gran Reserva

Tarón, Reserva 2008, Rioja, Spain

Gold medal winner

For Andre Luis Martins of Cavalry & Guards Club this had ‘fermented cassis with sweet spice and vanilla aromas’ as well as ‘firm round tannin with more developed notes of leather, cedar and spice’. Olivier Gasselin of Hakkasan detected ‘peppery spicy plum and dark bitter chocolate’ and found it ‘forward and appealing, dense and muscular’, summing it up as ‘very fine and complex with a lovely, savoury character’. Team leader Charlie Young summed up its Gold medal stature by describing a wine with simply everything in place: ‘Lifted aromatics with great structure and tertiary flavours alongside fresh fruit; classic.’

£12.35 Ellis of Richmond

Tarón, Pantocrator 2005, Rioja, Spain

Gold medal winner

‘Classic Rioja nose and palate,’ began team leader Andres Ituarte, going on to identify ‘worn wood, butter, cocoa, soft dried fruits and tobacco’ and a ‘bit of herbaceous character’. Corina Stanila of La Dame de Pic at Ten Trinity Square thought it was ‘beautiful wine’ with ‘great balance’, while Michael Fiducia of The Royal Automobile Club described it as ‘cherry pie with shortcrust pastry’ with ‘a creaminess that remains fresh’.

£18.75 Ellis of Richmond

Riojanas, Monte Real, Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain

Gold medal winner

‘Glorious Gran Reserva-style aromas,’ began team leader Sarah Jane Evans MW, adding that this clear Gold lister was ‘backed up by supple red cherry fruits, that are maturing nicely with tertiary development’. Ennio Pucciarelli of Kahani London agreed and picked up on its ‘intense cinnamon, mocha nose’ and thought it had a ‘balanced palate, good complexity and a smooth finish’. Woodhead 17’s James Fryer, meanwhile, was impressed by its ‘dense, black cherry fruit – it’s a powerful wine’.

£15.95 EWGA

Altos de Rioja, Altos R Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

‘Black fruits and spice on the nose, with a floral note too,’ began team leader Carlos Ferreira, while fellow team leader Martin Lam remarked on its ‘juicy dark plum fruit and well-balanced oak regime’.

£19.00 Direct Wines

CVNE, Viña Real, Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

‘Nicely understated,’ said team leader Charlie Young, ‘with savoury, dark berry aromas, decent tannin and blackberry fruit and good oak integration.’ ‘A harmonious palate with a long finish,’ thought fellow team leader Lionel Periner.

£12.29 Hatch Mansfield, Matthew Clark

Bodegas Forcada, Rioja Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

‘Definite notes of farmyard and leather,’ noted James Fryer of Woodhead 17. ‘Perhaps a little moody on the nose,’ said team leader Charlie Young, adding that it was, however, ‘ripe and structured with integrated oak and full-bodied, nice fruit’.

£8.50 Frederic Robinson

Valenciso, Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

This was another impressive Rioja for team leader Hamish Anderson, who noted: ‘A lovely nose, lifted and fresh with perhaps a touch of volatile acidity; the delicious oak feels French and classy, with subtle spice, dark plum and a stony grip. Everything is beautifully integrated.’

£15.85 Boutinot

Bodegas Olarra, Laztana, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

A worth medal winner, this was an impressive wine for Hakkasan’s Olivier Gasselin, who noted: ‘A peppery, smoky nose with dark plum and blackcurrant; this has a fine texture and fine oak treatment; the palate is savoury, with lovely balance and a fine finish.’

£12.50 Bodegas Olarra

Bodegas Olarra, La Catedral 2015, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

Team leader Charlie Young found much to admire in this, with its ‘clean, pure, berry-laden aromas and ripe, upfront sweet and lightly poached, fleshy fruit’. He also found ‘good length and freshness, and a nice dollop of cream to soften the crunchy tannins’.

£12.50 Bodegas Olarra

Bodegas Olarra, Añares, Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

James Fryer of Woodhead 17 found an aromatic nose of ‘mud, earth and dried coconut’ in this powerful Silver medal winner. The palate was ‘dense, verging on impenetrable, but with juicy black fruit and vanilla notes, big tannins and a full fruit finish’.

£15.75 Bodegas Olarra

Bodegas Olarra, Otoñal, Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja, Spain

Silver medal winner

Team leader Charlie Young was quite taken with this worthy Silver medal-winning Rioja. ‘This is savoury, with almost stony aromas,’ he said, adding: ‘There’s juicy red fruit, subtle use of oak and a cracking finish with cherries and tannin.’ ‘Would work well with ragu,’ suggested Daniel Loughlin of 20 Stories.

£15.75 Bodegas Olarra

Bodegas Olarra, Añares, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Bronze medal winner

‘There’s plenty of sweet vanilla and coconut notes from the oak and that carries through to the palate; but there’s creamy red fruits underneath,’ said team leader Charlie Young.

£8.09 C&D Wines

Valdemar, Conde Valdemar, Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain

Bronze medal winner

‘Evolved, ripe nose with plenty of aged, tertiary aromas of autumn leaves and dried fruit. The sweet palate is silky with fine tannins, and the finish is long with grainy, spicy oak,’ said Tobias Gorn of Boisdale Restaurants.

£13.06 Berkmann Wine Cellars

El Coto, Coto de Imaz, Gran Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£16.82 Liberty Wines

El Coto, Coto de Imaz, Reserva 2014, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£11.07 Liberty Wines

Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano, Reserva 2014, Rioja , Spain

Commended medal winner

Ondarre, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Riojanas, Viña Albina, Vendimia Seleccionada, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Bodegas Olarra, Otoñal, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£13.15 Bodegas Olarra

Bodegas Olarra, Olarra Clásico 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£12.50 Bodegas Olarra

Riojanas, Viña Albina, Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Ondarre, Era Costana, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Ondarre, Quasar, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Ondarre, Mayor de Ondarre, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Finca Valpiedra, Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

Bodegas Olarra, Cerro Añón, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£8.73 C&D Wines

Bodegas Olarra, Sagasta, Reserva 2015, Rioja, Spain

Commended medal winner

£11.83 Bodegas Olarra