Pinot Noir - New Zealand
It used to be that New Zealand Pinot was the kind of gateway drug to Burgundy, but on this evidence it’s beyond that – at least price-wise. Otago and Martinborough have always been pricey, but as recently as three years ago we were getting plenty of decent Marlborough Pinots at £10 or less.
Well, no more. There was precious little here of any description under £12, with most of the medal-winners £20 or above. On this evidence, Kiwi Pinot is a long way from entry-level.
On the plus side, the top wines showed very strongly. This hasn’t always been the case in SWA – often the winemakers are accused of having ambitions greater than the vineyards can provide. But this year the feedback was unanimous: there’s really good wine here, and it’s worth paying for – handy when Burgundy prices are so high.
Well done to Prophet’s Rock, by the way, whose 2016 Home Vineyard Pinot followed the 2014 to make our Gold List for the second successive year.
From The Tasting Teams
'This was not the most exciting flight of Pinot, but the wines had a nice varietal character – quite rich and easy-drinking.’ Andres Ituarte, team leader
‘I was a bit disappointed. I thought we would find more typicity, more concentration, more elegance. These were rather simple. I’m being a bit harsh here, but it’s because this region has so much potential.’ Diana Rollan, D&D London
‘Otago was an all-round great flight. The wines showed the typicity of the area. Some need time in bottle to let the balsamic notes develop, but overall they were well-balanced and very appealing.’ José Hernandez, Hakkasan
‘I’m quite interested in New World wines, and I liked most of these. Many would be very good wines to pair with light meat like lamb.’ Michele Ciciriello, China Tang at The Dorchester
‘There were a couple of exceptionally good wines from Otago. The country is really showing maturity in winemaking, they’ve got to grips with fruit style, and the vines’ age is showing. It’s living up to its burgeoning reputation.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘The Marlborough Pinots are just what you want for a wine by the glass – not complicated, with a great rush of fruit, which is exactly why consumers like them.’ Sarah Jane Evans MW, team leader
‘Otago was slightly pricey – a lot of the wines were priced around £30, so not so cheap – but the quality was there, and I think they would still be easy to sell.’ Janusz Pawel Sasiadek, Mercato Metropolitano
‘The Martinborough wines stood out the most. We were kinder to a more sophisticated, cooler style of winemaking.’ Hamish Lawrie Greening, Twenty Seven by Jamie Rogers