Q&A: Maria Boumpa, wine director, Da Terra, London

Maria Boumpa is one of the most influential and thoughtful voices working in the hospitality industry today. Born in Greece, Boumpa made the considerable leap from studying economics to immersing herself in the demanding world of luxury hotel service. The rest is history: international experience cemented her passion for service and storytelling, including an invaluable stint at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Copenhagen. Now firmly established as wine director and restaurant manager at Da Terra in London, Boumpa has become a standout figure on the UK wine scene – judge, sommelier, advocate and mentor rolled into one. Renowned for her dynamic service style, she has not only shaped an inspiring wine programme – balancing classic appellations with emerging regions and credible low/no options – but has also gained industry recognition at the highest level. Crowned UK Sommelier of the Year in 2025, Boumpa also holds the Advanced Certificate from the Court of Master Sommeliers. James Lawrence reports.

Tell us more about your early years?

I grew up in Greece, where hospitality is part of everyday life. Sharing food and wine around the table is natural in our culture. However, I wasn’t planning to work in hospitality. I was studying economics at university and needed a part-time job, so I started working in a five-star hotel. That experience changed my direction. I found the pace, structure and guest interaction engaging and fulfilling.

So what happened next?

After a couple of years working in Greece, I moved to Denmark to complete an internship at a one-Michelin-star restaurant in Copenhagen. That exposure to higher technical standards and an international environment confirmed that hospitality could be a serious long-term career.

What first drew you to wine, and when did it become a profession rather than a passion?

During my stage in Copenhagen, I was introduced to structured wine pairings in fine dining. Until then, I hadn’t fully understood the depth and international scope of wine. What attracted me most was how much I didn’t know. It felt like a challenge. If I wanted to grow in the industry, I needed to understand wine properly - technically and commercially. That’s when wine became more than an interest. I began studying seriously, and soon after I moved to the UK to focus on wine full time.

How do you think the role of the sommelier is evolving today?

Technical knowledge is expected. What has changed is the scope of responsibility. Today’s sommelier must understand margins, stock control, pricing, supplier relationships and cash flow. A wine list must be commercially viable as well as inspiring. Equally important is adaptability in service. Reading the table and adjusting one's communication style is fundamental.

Everyone agrees that guests are drinking differently. How has this influenced your wine list?

Guests are drinking less, but often better. There is more emphasis on provenance and authenticity. The low and no-alcohol category has grown significantly, driven by health, lifestyle and sometimes financial considerations. Not everyone wants a full pairing or multiple bottles.

However, the structure of the list remains organised by region and producer, as that framework

works both commercially and educationally. What has changed is the flexibility - stronger premium by-the-glass options, serious low/no alternatives and a broader range of entry price points. The goal is to offer real choice while maintaining a clear sense of identity.

What have been the toughest moments in your career?

The most challenging aspect has been managing the intensity of the profession alongside my personal life. Long hours, high standards and constant study require discipline. There have been periods of pressure and self-doubt, but they built resilience. This profession demands consistency and long-term commitment beyond the visible success.

How difficult is it to build financially sustainable yet inspiring lists today?

It is increasingly complex. Costs are rising across production, logistics and allocations, so lists must be built strategically. A wine list must reflect the restaurant’s identity, work with the food and meet commercial targets. Classic regions and recognisable producers still matter to guests. At the same time, creativity is essential. Exploring emerging regions and strong-value producers helps maintain both excitement and margin.

And the people aspect - how do you approach mentoring and building diverse teams?

I benefited greatly from mentors early in my career and I feel a responsibility to offer the same support to younger professionals. I aim to be accessible for study advice, competition preparation and general guidance. The industry progresses when we support each other. Building diverse teams starts with fairness, openness and creating an environment where people feel respected and heard.

Finally - how do you unwind after a busy service?

After a service, I switch off with music and quiet time. I rarely drink wine at the end of the night, as I taste throughout the day. I might have a beer instead - something refreshing and uncomplicated.