The premiumisation game
Observing a sommelier work their magic on the restaurant floor is to witness a masterclass in the art of persuasion. The seemingly effortless way a skilled professional introduces a pricier bottle, using a deft combination of storytelling and attentive listening, is a craft in itself. I have seen it countless times, and it's far more entertaining and impressive than any close-up magic act - or Christopher Nolan film.
Yet the art of trade-up is becoming more complex – and the stakes are higher. In a cost-conscious market, persuading guests that a premium bottle is worth a premium price, while ensuring the restaurant can source, price and serve it profitably, is becoming increasingly difficult. Today, consumers are scrutinising discretionary spending closely, and restaurants must work harder to justify the cost of a night out. But if a sommelier can inspire rather than sell, there is still money to be made from premiumisation. The question is: what's the best way to go about it?
“The biggest mistake restaurants make when trying to premiumise their wine sales is putting more expensive wines on the list and assuming people will magically want them,” says Will Morley, general manager at The Woodcote.
“Guests are not allergic to dropping £100 on a bottle. They're allergic to feeling they have been sold £100. They want the stories, the names, the characters - and it's our responsibility to translate those things into something that makes the bottle feel worth discovering.”
Daniel Marzotto, chef sommelier at Sketch, agrees, noting that restaurants should avoid “making premiumisation feel like upselling. In a cost-conscious market, we need to create value rather than simply present a higher price”.
He adds: “As I always tell my sommeliers, we have to remain humble, listen carefully and learn to 'read the guest', understanding what they want rather than deciding for them. When the recommendation feels personal and genuinely relevant, spending more becomes a natural choice, not a sales tactic.”
Strategic overhaul
Like many stakeholders in the hospitality sector, The Woodcote has been reworking the structure of its wine list to encourage trade-up without leaving guests feeling they are being steered towards higher prices. Morley describes his approach as creating “a ladder rather than a staircase”, grouping wines using broad, approachable descriptions rather than relying solely on regional classifications.
“Premiumisation needs to offer something beyond liquid in a glass. Provenance, rarity, age, craftsmanship and, most importantly, a reason why this particular bottle belongs on this particular table,” he says.
“A £100 wine doesn't have to taste twice as good as a £50 wine. It needs to make the occasion feel twice as interesting. The maker, the terroir, the characters, the essence of flavour - that's where the sommelier earns their keep.”
Marzotto, too, emphasises that trade-up is increasingly “experience led rather than status led”, and that a compelling story can be more effective than simple brand power.
Meanwhile, Marco Nardi, sommelier at Caractère, remains focused on “removing friction rather than adding pressure” when structuring his list. According to Nardi, the biggest lever to trade-up is pricing on cash margin rather than a fixed percentage, ensuring that more expensive bottles offer relative value.
“A flatter mark-up further up the list makes the step from £60 to £90 feel like a genuine upgrade rather than a penalty,” he explains.
Of course, there are differences of approach depending on the venue, its clientele and the commercial model underpinning the list. Yet a common theme emerges: the importance of discipline and a razor-sharp understanding of value. It cannot be achieved by simply adding more expensive wines or increasing prices across the list. Guests need to understand what they gain by moving up a tier.
According to Cameron Dewar, sommelier at Osteria Vibrato: “We do two things that I think encourages premiumisation without being 'pushy' or 'upselling'. The first is cash margin on top-end wines; people who dine out see the prices and recognise the value. The other is more subtle but actually has more impact on our list: vintage verticality. We prioritise listing wines that show balance and drinkability - a few years in bottle goes a long to a wine finding its place.”
Dewar similarly emphasises the importance of disciplined pricing. “A race to the bottom can spell doom, while jacking up prices tends to scare off your regulars,” he says, warning against indiscriminate repricing.
The pain of commitment
Meanwhile, there is much talk among sommeliers about avoiding “the pain of commitment” - asking diners to spend a substantial sum on a bottle of wine they have never heard of. A guest might hesitate to spend £130 on an unfamiliar bottle, but be much more receptive to a single serve.
“Global research points to that habits have shifted away from a group sharing a bottle towards individuals choosing their own drink,” says Nardi.
“A premium by-the-glass selection, served through Coravin, lets a guest try a serious wine at a manageable commitment. That is often the first step towards ordering the bottle next time.”
Valentin Mouillard, group head sommelier for L'Enclume and Simon Rogan Restaurants, advocates embracing different formats, including carafes. Indeed, carafes offer guests a lower-cost way to explore wines, and he even notes that “some [diners] will choose two carafes, ultimately spending more than they might have on a single bottle.” And then there is food pairing.
“Pairing has always been the opportunity for us. Our menus and food offering suit pairings very well. It's fun and we put a lot of effort into them, which the guests realise. They might never have gone for a bottle at £180, but two pairings at £90 feels like the right choice.”
Of course, these approaches are not automatic routes to higher revenue. Premium by-the-glass programmes require careful stock management – wastage is an omnipresent concern. But when the format is matched to the guest and the occasion, it can prompt exploration into the higher-priced wines.
Away from the restaurant floor, Dewar champions savvy sourcing through brokers and bin-end opportunities; Nardi identifies future opportunities in grower champagne, English sparkling and indigenous Spanish and Italian varieties.
“I think the biggest opportunities in 2026 are in lesser-known regions, small producers and mature vintages. Guests are increasingly willing to trade up when they discover something rare, authentic and difficult to find elsewhere,” notes Marzotto.
Encouraging premiumisation requires a delicate balancing act: get it right, and the trade-up becomes a natural extension of good hospitality; get it wrong, and you risk alienating your client base – potentially for good. Fortunately, the UK has enough consummate professionals who can walk that tightrope, and walk it with style.
Let them drink Lafite.