Spain: North, including Navarra & Txakoli
2016 Gold: 1 Silver: 7 Bronze: 2 Commended: 4
2015 Gold: 2 Silver: 6 Bronze: 3 Commended: 6
The word ‘polarising’ could have been created for this region’s wines this year. Taking in everything from the well-priced Grenache-driven generosity of Campo de Borja to the taut skeletal punch of Txakoli and liberally scattered with cool-climate international grape offerings from Navarra it does, it’s true, cover a lot of ground.
Yet again and again two teams of tasters working their way through flights from the same region came to wildly different conclusions. It was like asking Jacques Delors and Nigel Farage what they think about the importance of the EU.
Some of this could be explained by the fact that we got a larger than usual entry of wines from Navarra this year. High and cool, it’s a marginal climate for many of the reds grown there, and a fair number of wines overstepped the line between ‘edgy’ and ‘unripe’, though the whites fared better, particularly Chardonnay.
Speaking of whites, it was good to see some Txakolis pick up medals this year (including a first-ever Gold). This style is way off the radar of most restaurants, but its uniqueness can be useful, provided your team learns how to pronounce it. (Hint: it sounds like an Irish railroad worker from an old country and western song: Chack O’Lee).
FROM THE TASTING TEAMS
‘There was a lot of oak in the reds, but you know that you can buy it and it will keep fresh.’ Laurent Richet MS, Restaurant Sat Bains
‘The reds were much more than good for the price.’ Bart Michalewicz, The Arts Club
‘The whites were not as good as expected at all. They were a bit thin and skinny. There should be more texture and brightness. The wines tasted scalped.’ Angela Reddin, team leader
‘The reds were dynamic. It’s one of the places to look at – an understated area of Spain.’ Gustavo Medina, Tate Britain
‘The reds were the worst flight I’ve had at these awards. They were oxidised, volatile, shagged out wine: over-extracted, with green tannins.’ Simon Woods, team leader
“Txakoli isn’t that well known, but it works well with seafood and you can drink them with anything fatty or greasy.” Ivan Vegas, Fox Fine Wines & Spirits
“Campo de Borja is arguably the best source of Garnacha in the world. And if you list it above 25 quid in a restaurant you should be shot because it is great value.” Simon Woods, team leader
FOOTNOTE: Includes wines from Somontano, Campo de Borja, Calatayud & Cariñena.