Q&A: Imre Somogyi, assistant head sommelier, The Ritz, London

Hungarian by birth and sommelier by choice, Imre Somogyi is one of The Ritz's greatest assets. Known for his quietly authoritative style and thoughtful approach to building wine programmes, Somogyi brings a quiet intensity to the role – yet remains utterly approachable and guest focused. A spell in the US, followed by tutelage under two masters of their craft - Fernando Lopez Lara and Konstantinos Nestoridis – refined his skills as he came to master the rhythms of service. His reward? Presiding over a cellar of extraordinary breadth and depth, where iconic labels sit alongside under-the-radar discoveries and esoteric gems. Thoughtful, commercially astute and deeply committed to the guest experience, Somogyi delivers wine lists that generate both profit and excitement – no mean feat today. Over a glass of Tokaj, of course, he meets James Lawrence to discuss rare old Burgundy, designing the perfect list, and time travel.

Where did you grow up?
 
I grew up in a small town called Hajdúnánás in the north east of Hungary, just south of the Tokaj region.
 
What was your ‘conversion bottle’?
 
I believe there is more than one bottle that can fit into this category. Over the years I’ve had a few wines that really stayed with me and shaped how I think about wine: Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 1999 and Château Latour 1990 were both memorable, magnificent bottles. But Clos Rougeard 2007, Meursault Genevrières Coche-Dury 2007, and Château Coutet 1908 were no less impressive and thought-provoking. Each of these bottles left a lasting impression on me in a different way.
 
Who were the people who shaped you most early in your career?
 
I started my sommelier career in the United States, where my first head sommelier, Adam Lemon, taught me a great deal. When I later moved to London, I had the good fortune to meet and work alongside many excellent sommeliers. Two people I owe a “big thank you” to are Fernando Lopez Lara and Konstantinos Nestoridis.
 
If you could go back and speak to your younger self just starting in hospitality, what advice would you give about surviving and thriving in the industry?
 
Be humble and stay hungry. Always push your limits and keep learning as much as you can.
 
When you’re constructing a wine list today amid rising costs, supply disruptions and more cautious diners, what principles guide your decisions so the list remains both exciting and profitable?
 
For me, balance is the key. A wine list needs to include the classics and the great names, but it also needs personality. It should showcase unique regions and carefully curated wines - real gems that you can trust and proudly serve to your guests. I strongly believe that one of the most important elements is building strong relationships with producers and suppliers, where trust and support go both ways. These relationships often allow you to find wines that offer real value.
 
At the same time, every wine list should be built differently. You need to understand the philosophy of the venue, its goals and its guests. The best wine lists always create a balance: wines for the classics, wines for discovery, and wines for collectors, while also staying aware of current trends in the market.
 
Are guests becoming more adventurous or more cautious with wine spending and how does that influence the structure of a modern wine list?
 
I think guests today are a mix of both. Many are more price conscious than before, but they are also curious and open to discovering new regions and producers. This means the wine list needs strong value across all price points, particularly in the mid-range, and a by-the-glass programme that encourages exploration.
 
Are there specific strategies pricing architecture, by-the-glass programmes, supplier relationships that you’ve found particularly effective in protecting profitability?
 
A well-designed pricing structure is essential, especially with attractive entry-level and mid-tier wines. A dynamic by-the-glass programme can also drive both guest engagement and revenue. Long-term relationships with suppliers and producers are extremely important as well, as they often allow access to better allocations and more competitive pricing.
 
What’s the hardest personal sacrifice you’ve made in pursuing this career?
 
Spending a lot of time away from my family.
 
How do you switch off?
 
I enjoy playing tennis, spending time with my son and my fiancée, and sharing a good bottle of wine with friends.
 
Finally -  a seminal food and wine pairing?
 
One pairing that has always stayed with me is roast pigeon with mature Burgundy - the combination of delicate game flavours and the elegance of aged Pinot Noir can be truly unforgettable.
 
Or a match made in heaven: Crêpes Suzette with a sweet Tokaj Szamorodni with a little age - a perfect pairing.