Q&A: Elizabeth Mellish, head sommelier at Gleneagles Townhouse, Edinburgh

Elizabeth Mellish (or Lizzie to her friends) is a rising star in Edinburgh's burgeoning restaurant scene. Following a family holiday to France that sparked a passionate love affair with the grape, Mellish pursued a career in hospitality, starting with an internship as a sommelier during her university studies. Now recognised as one of the UK's top wine professionals – recent accolades include being listed in Harpers' "30 Under 30" – Mellish holds degrees in both Hotel Management and a first-class Master of Science in Viticulture and Oenology from Plumpton College. More recently,  she spearheaded a monthly members-only wine club, fostering a community of wine enthusiasts via themed tastings and events. Emblematic of the modern face of the UK wine trade, Mellish is a consummate professional, and incredibly friendly to boot. Over a nice glass of Burgundy, James Lawrence meets Scotland's top sommelier.

Did you grow up in a wine-drinking household?

Yes, it was actually my parents who first sparked my love for wine. I was very lucky – on special occasions, I was allowed a small taste of whatever they were drinking, which made it feel both grown-up and special. I really fell in love with wine on a family holiday to France where I found a fascination with the labels. That early exposure planted the seed for what would eventually become a lifelong passion.

What were your ambitions as a teenager?

I have never been someone who had my life all planned out – I truly had no idea what I wanted to do when I left school, but I knew I wanted to travel. It was this passion for travel, exploring new places and meeting new people that eventually led me to hospitality and later the wine industry.  Looking back, not having it all figured out was actually a gift, it allowed me to discover a career that I might never have considered had I been following a rigid plan.

Tell us about your first month as a sommelier - what did you learn?

My first month as a sommelier was during an internship, and it was a real deep dive, definitely a steep learning curve. I was immersed in the world of tasting menus, pairings and guest interactions, and had to quickly build the confidence to talk about wine in a way that felt natural and informed. One of the biggest challenges was learning the wine list. Indeed, it had over 1,000 wines on it, so it was pretty overwhelming at first. I remember sitting down with my head sommelier regularly, tasting and talking through the list section by section, which helped everything start to click. But the most valuable lesson I learned was how to really listen to guests. Most people don’t speak in “wine language”, so it was about understanding what they were actually asking for and turning that into a recommendation that felt right for them. That first month taught me being a sommelier is just as much about people and communication as it is about wine.

What is your role at Gleneagles Townhouse?

I’m the head sommelier at Gleneagles Townhouse and was part of the core opening team when the hotel launched in 2022. My role is wonderfully varied; one day I could be curating wine pairings for a tasting dinner and the next I’m updating the wine list, managing cellar stock, or hosting a wine tasting for members. I source and purchase wines, manage inventory and oversee pricing and budgets. Staff training is a big part of what I do too – I love helping the team grow their confidence with wine. One of the highlights has been creating and running our monthly members-only wine club, which has become a real staple of our offering and a great way to build lasting relationships through wine.

Most memorable customer (for a good or bad reason!)

Sometimes it’s the smallest moments that make a customer truly memorable – and, in turn, make you memorable to them. My favourite guests are often the ones who come in with quite fixed ideas about what they like to drink. There’s something so rewarding about guiding them toward a wine they might never have considered and seeing that moment of surprise and delight when they discover something new. Those interactions stick with me because they remind me of the power of good hospitality and how a little curiosity can lead to unexpected experiences.

What are the winning ingredients behind a world-class wine list?

Balancing well-loved classics with unique vintages in the wine selection at Gleneagles Townhouse involves a careful approach that satisfies familiar preferences while encouraging exploration. Our goal is to offer a diverse selection that appeals to a broad range of palates. We ensure our core selection includes renowned, reliable wines that guests trust. These classics provide comfort and familiarity. Simultaneously, we strive to keep the selection engaging by incorporating unique vintages that offer fresh experiences, whether through lesser-known regions, emerging winemakers, or limited-edition bottles. Each wine tells a story, inviting guests to explore beyond their usual choices.

How important is seasonality in terms of influencing guest behaviour?

Seasonality absolutely continues to influence guest behaviour, though the extent and nuance of that influence are shifting. The cliché of rosé being a summer-only drink still holds some truth: we see a marked increase in demand for it as soon as the weather warms, but it's no longer as rigidly seasonal as it once was. Many guests today are more adventurous and willing to explore styles outside traditional seasonal boundaries. That said, temperature and atmosphere still have a huge impact. Crisp whites, lighter reds and sparkling wines naturally feel more appealing in warmer months, just as fuller-bodied reds and fortified wines tend to resonate more in colder weather.

What undiscovered style or grape deserves to be put in the spotlight?

I’m a big fan of the Timorasso grape variety at the moment. It’s an ancient white grape from Piedmont that was nearly lost during the 1970s and ’80s, but passionate producers have brought it back from the brink of extinction. Timorasso wines combine high acidity with a rich, textured mouthfeel, reminiscent of a cross between Chablis and Savennières. The wines show notes of ripe pear, citrus and wild herbs, and they develop beautiful honeyed and nutty complexities with age. It’s a fantastic choice for anyone looking to explore a white wine that balances freshness with depth.

What wine style could you not live without?

I am not sure if there is a specific style, but one of my favourite wines is a classic Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet. It was one of the very first wines I fell in love with and it still brings back such fantastic memories any time I am lucky enough to drink some.

Finally - your top insider tip for visitors to Edinburgh?

Edinburgh is a city best explored on foot, and some of the best gems are tucked just off the main routes. The food and drink scene in Edinburgh keeps going from strength to strength with incredible new places opening up all the time. For wine lovers, Smith & Gertrude in Stockbridge is a must-visit. With a regularly changing selection of wines by the glass, there's always something new to discover. Pair a well-chosen red with one of their signature cheese toasties — it's simple, indulgent perfection. When it comes to dining, The Palmerston is a firm favourite. Stop by in the morning for one of its exceptional pastries and a coffee or visit for lunch or dinner to enjoy a menu that celebrates seasonal produce alongside a cracking wine list.