The fortified cometh?
Can fortified wine - once a linchpin of fine dining - reclaim its rightful place at the heart of a great restaurant's cellar? Or is it destined to languish in the same camp as Riesling: adored by the trade, yet met with polite indifference by diners, whose eyes glaze over the moment evangelism begins?
For head sommelier Emer Landgraf at The Clove Club, the battle for fortified “is about reclaiming confidence”.
She says: “Fortifieds’ role will evolve on UK wine lists. I think we will see them being listed more often in the apéritif section, alongside Champagne and English sparkling wine, and see them utilised more on wine pairings with tasting menus through the meal. I do believe a push for education is what will make the biggest difference to the way fortified wines are being accepted, teaching the consumer about the different styles.”
Yet Landgraf is under no illusions about the challenges that lie ahead. Over the past 25 years, fortified wine has been relegated to the fringes of the modern list – if featured at all. Sommeliers love the creative potential of these complex, food-friendly wines, not least sherry in its myriad guises. But for many professionals, psychological and practical barriers remain problematic when trying to integrate fortified into a tasting menu.
“The biggest barrier is the alcohol content of Port and Madeira,” explains Landgraf. “Therefore the serving size needs to be small, but also I believe a lot of instruction needs to be given to guests on how to consume these beverages, whether on a wine pairing or not.”
It's a sentiment echoed by Stuart Skea, group head sommelier across Edinburgh's Lyla restaurant group. “ABV is something that can be hard to overcome,” he says. “There is also a general lack of knowledge – it's often seen as a drink of yesteryear.”
Indeed, for younger audiences 'brought up' on low-intervention Swartland Chenin Blanc, oxidative oloroso and vintage Port can feel, ironically, countercultural. However, it's precisely this concentration – of flavour, texture and history – that can give fortified a renewed relevance in our age of fusion cuisine and relentless experimentation.
Reframing the context
According to Sam Weatherill, educator and wine director at Etch by Steven Edwards, part of the solution is reframing the context in which fortified appears. “I think there is still a struggle to sell these wines, with the exception of a glass of Port with cheese,” he admits.
He continues: “But I think having printed suggested pairings on a menu is a simple way to try to reconnect these wines with people. Ordering the anchovies? Why not add a glass of manzanilla for £6. Palo Cortado with roast duck is another beautiful thing, but not something that the general public would order without a strong nudge.
“I think the general perception that these are all sweet wines can be a barrier, so suggested pairings on menus can help with this. For example, a dry Sercial Madeira with autumnal flavours like pumpkin soup is a surefire way to showcase how incredible these wines can be at the start of a meal.”
This ethos – gentle instruction alongside occasion reframing – has become de rigueur in forward-thinking bars and restaurants. Sommeliers understand that nostalgia won't save fortified – emerging generations want freshness, purity and storytelling.
“Fresher contemporary styles are helping immensely to break down old perceptions; Port is for cooking and sherry and Madeira are what my grandparents drink,” notes Landgraf.
“I would also say the rise in popularity of Jura wines has actually helped the popularity of Spanish fortified wines - especially sherry. People understand this yeasty, flor-like flavour profile, and can understand its use when it comes to food pairings.” At Bar Valette, Landgraf has gone a step further, grouping all oxidative or flor-aged wines on one page.
“It gives confidence to the guest to be able to experiment with styles/regions/producers they haven't tried before,” she adds.
Meanwhile, at Fourth & Church in Hove, co-owner Paul Morgan offers serving recommendations, temperature guides and food pairings – even soil discussions during staff training.
Of course, it's on the plate where fortifieds prove their worth. The key, emphasises Skea, is the ability to anchor these wines in flavour, not format. In other words: food unlocks acceptance.
“We've used the likes of vin doux naturel/Maury with cheese courses and Rancio Rivesaltes and Marsala with dessert, and of course sherry is sublime with game and all manner of autumnal flavours,” he says.
“I also recently had a memorable pairing of palo cortado with duck and apricot.” In a landscape where discovery is king, fortified wines can tick every box: heritage, sustainability (due to extended shelf life) and gastronomic range. Moreover, promoting fortified can represent strong commercial logic. “Premium sherry is known for its exceptional value among wine professionals with a glass typically priced well below still wines of comparable quality,” observes Cord's head sommelier, Jiachen Lu.
“Additionally, oxidative and sweet sherry possess an extended shelf life once opened, which helps with effective waste control. To me, the key is selecting sherries that fit the menu and guest expectations, both in terms of price and palate.” The challenge, Lu argues, lies not in a lack of relevance, but communicating the virtues of Port and sherry with flair.
The cocktail hour
Meanwhile, Port and sherry are increasingly finding a welcome place at the back bar. “The most effective strategies to reach the younger generation are the use of these wines in cocktails and on wine pairings alongside a tasting menu,” says Landgraf.
“At The Clove Club, we have been playing around on a riff of a Manhattan - subbing out the vermouth with Port, still a work in progress.”
Weatherill agrees that by-the-glass and cocktail serves are essential to lowering the entry barrier, in addition to putting the customer at ease.
“I think it's always important to put yourself in the guests' shoes, and imagine how things would appear from their perspective,” he underlines.
“We all love nerding out about geology and obscure grape varieties, but to most people what matters is the contents in the glass, and it's important to be aware of this when communicating, and welcoming people into your restaurant or bar.”
Or, as Paul Morgan puts it: “Giving some background into the history of the DO always helps dispel some of the myths that the public in the UK associate with the category.”
Like many in the trade, Morgan does not worship nostalgia; he has fallen in love with that rare combination of complexity, value and creative potential that defines really good fortified wine. Yet unlocking this potential requires much patience, playfulness and, above all, innovation.
Fortified wine will probably never dominate British dining life in the way it once did, but perhaps that's the wrong benchmark. The world has moved on – and so have diners' expectations. Today, the opportunity lies not in time travel but in discovery and reappraisal – giving sommeliers fresh impetus to pass the Port.