Q&A: Sam Weatherill, wine director, Etch by Steven Edwards

Passionate, talented and eternally optimistic, Sam Weatherill – better known as the Sassy Sommelier - is the creative force behind the innovative wine programme at Etch by Steven Edwards in Hove.  Born and raised in nearby Brighton, Weatherill first pursued Economics and later an MA in Corruption in Governance before discovering a love for wine tomes and old bottles of ethereal Burgundy. Starting out as bar manager at Etch, he quickly rose to wine director, earning a reputation for bold lists that marry classic regions with esoteric, under-the-radar gems. Over a Campari and soda, Weatherill uncorks his story with James Lawrence – leaving no bottle unturned.

Was there a specific moment, bottle, or mentor that lit the wine spark?

Enrolling on the WSET Level 2 programme was one of my first proper introductions to wine, and really lit a spark to pursue further knowledge. While at university I worked at Jamie’s Italian in Brighton, and I was lucky enough to try a glass of Pieropan Calvarino Soave Classico, which was a revelatory glass of white wine for me, as I’d only been exposed to low-cost, lower-quality whites before then. Also the first time I tried Jean Foillard’s Côte du Py Morgon was an eye opener; ethereal, delicate but with so much complexity, length and balance.

Tell us more about your career journey?

I worked in hospitality and events while studying Economics at university, and then as a cocktail bartender during my MA in Corruption in Governance. I worked a few internships in London after this, mainly in research-based roles for NGOs. I ended up moving back to Brighton and working behind the bar again, moving between a couple of different venues. It was while I was managing a cocktail bar that I decided to take a wine course to plug a gap in my knowledge, so in 2016 I enrolled on the WSET Level 2 with Sussex Wine School, swiftly jumping into Level 3 right after. I started at Etch in 2017 as bar manager, and ended up moving over to the sommelier role a couple of months after opening, as the position became available. I’ve been overseeing the wine list ever since, growing, expanding and introducing  more  exciting wines to the people of Brighton and Hove.

Who have been the most influential figures in your professional journey so far, and what lessons from them do you carry with you today?

I have been slightly isolated down in Brighton as there is a dearth of fine-dining restaurants that also have strong wine lists. A lot of the influential figures are people I have met on wine trips abroad and winemaker lunches in London. Some particularly inspirational people I have been lucky enough to spend time with on trips are Chris Delalonde MS from Hakkasan Group, and Josh Castle from the Noble Rot Group. I undertook a stage for a couple of weeks at Core by Clare Smyth, and the opportunity to work with Gareth Ferreira and the rest of the team was incredible. His humble and charming approach to wine service is certainly something I have tried to emulate.

If you think back to yourself at the very start of your career, what advice would today’s Sassy Sommelier give to that younger version of Sam?

Study hard, but go easy on yourself, and remember to be present and enjoy every moment of the ride, rather than just focusing on the destination. Also, invest all your money in Burgundy because it will only become more unaffordable.

The wine world often struggles with perceptions of elitism. What techniques do you use to make wine feel more approachable without losing depth and nuance?

The wine list at Etch is designed to make it easy to navigate for the average consumer. We separate our wines by styles, rather than country or region. So light and fresh reds are all together in ‘Pinot and Pals’, Spicy reds are under ‘Rhone & Rotundone’, Mineral driven whites are under “Rocky Road’, whilst big rich whites are under ‘Butter Bombs’. These casual titles, along with our casual attire in the restaurant, help prevent people from feeling overwhelmed or assuming the list is only for the upper echelons of wine knowledge. They are all steps designed to take the pressure off a little bit. All details around regions etc are still listed of course, and the team are always on hand to provide depth and nuance, but only for those who require, want or need it.

The industry has faced big challenges in recent years, from staffing shortages to shifting dining habits. How do you think the role of the sommelier has changed, and what must it look like in the future?

I think the role has developed slightly and probably requires a more rounded skill set than in previous years. There is so much more to it than simply being knowledgeable about wine, and the cost of living crisis and Brexit have only exacerbated issues around staffing and dining habits. A sommelier today has to bring a lot to the table. In the future we are only going to have to keep improving our overall skill set and getting smarter with purchasing.

Finally - favourite non-wine tipple?

It’s a tough call between Chartreuse, a Campari and soda, and a beer (either a saison or lager, depending on mood and the time of day). Pre-meal it’s Campari Soda. Post-shift it’s a lager & Green Chartreuse Boilermaker.