Home News > July 2025 > Q&A: Erin Donnelly, sommelier, Heron, Edinburgh

Q&A: Erin Donnelly, sommelier, Heron, Edinburgh

 

Edinburgh’s most gregarious sommelier, Erin Donnelly brings passion, warmth and a certain je ne sais quoi to her well-honed craft. Currently employed at Heron, Edinburgh’s leading advocate of hyper-seasonal Scottish produce, Donnelly discovered her love for the grape in New Zealand – a thrilling introduction to the nitty gritty of viticulture. Today, she curates a distinctive list that pays homage to both Old World classicism and esoteric varieties. Blessed with a sharp palate and keen eye for detail, Donnelly represents the best of Scottish hospitality. In this candid conversation, she talks to James Lawrence about making the jump from wine bar to fine dining, the thrill of new discovery and why Champagne tartare might just be a gift from the gods.

Who - or what - ignited your love of the grape?

I was given a crash course in wine while taking on my first role in hospitality, sparking a curiosity. A few years later I attended a wine fair while in New Zealand, and it blew my mind that you could find so many flavours packed into a humble glass. Once I started thinking about what I was tasting, a new world opened up. It was exciting and there was so much to explore.

You fell in love with wine while in New Zealand before returning to Edinburgh - can you share what it was about that experience which ignited your passion?

In New Zealand, wine is everywhere. After being in Scotland where everything is very whisky focused, it was exciting to have a different drink to explore. It was a spot where it was perfect to learn, as so many people knew wine and knew what they liked. We also got the chance to meet lots of winemakers which taught me about the winemaking process and I found it fascinating how small changes and decisions made during this process could have a big impact on the wine.

At Heron, your wine list “focuses on the Old World with a nod to the New World” and explores lesser-known regions. How do you approach curating these under-the-radar bottles and what excites you most about them?

I get excited about smaller producers with native grape varieties. We try to taste as much as we can as well as reading about new plantings. With our pairings, it’s about finding the flavours that match and then looking for grapes or regions that give these flavours that aren’t classical.

Michael Saunders, CEO at Coterie Holdings, recently opined that consumers are more willing to try esoteric styles today. Do you agree?

I find that people are drinking less and so looking for a ‘unicorn’ bottle or glass of wine. Guests are leaning towards trying something new that will push their boundaries ever so slightly. I think this is helped with our wine list being larger and shying away from classic styles - we have no New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio listed. We encourage conversations about wine and more often than not I get to share bottles that would otherwise be hidden on the wine list.

Before fine dining, you managed a wine bar in Edinburgh. What key lessons from that environment helped shape your technique and philosophy as a sommelier?

During my time as a manager of a small neighbourhood wine bar I learnt to consistently rotate my wine lists to keep regular guests excited about our new offerings. I also learned to channel my enthusiasm with daily staff tastings and spec books for all our wines.

Which courses, certifications or mentors have had the greatest impact on your growth?

Since moving to fine dining I’ve been extremely lucky to have worked with some of the best sommeliers in Scotland and to be guided by them. I currently work alongside Seoridh Fraser, who has shown me how to cohesively grow a wine list and cellar while maintaining a high level of individual wine knowledge. Richie Twentyman, my previous manager, pushed me to focus on service and uphold the highest standards during service. Also Glen Montgomery, who honed in on my passion for wine and was always a helpful sounding board for discussing controversial wine ideas.

Why did you decide to become a SWA judge?

I wanted a chance to push my palate. It’s a feat to taste and evaluate over 60 wines in a day, and to get a chance to do this alongside the crème de la creme of the industry. It was a no brainer.

Your seminal food and wine pairing?

One of my favourite food and wine pairings is a dish that I entered to Gosset Matchmakers alongside one of my junior chefs, where we secured second place – a beef tartare with Champagne (preferably Meunier-dominant and a vintage showing). I love this dish as I can whip it up at home and the richness of the egg yolk balances the acidity of the Champagne. A decadent pairing and the perfect treat after a long week.

Looking ahead, what trends or emerging styles in wine - whether Old World rediscoveries or New World innovations - are you most excited to bring to your guests at Heron?

I’m most excited about the revival of native grapes, it’s something that we actively explore at Heron and I try to taste as much as possible during my free time. I also get excited by smaller family-run producers. I was lucky enough to meet quite a few up-and-comers while at Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, who I’m keeping my eyes peeled for on the UK market.

On your nights off - favourite treat?

My partner and I have started a tradition of tasting new wine and pairing with food from different regions. This tends to lead to some interesting kitchen mishaps, but has been a really nice way to unwind. My partner also collects whisky so we do our own tastings, which helps to appreciate a slightly different flavour profile to wine.

Finally - top tip for foodie visitors to Edinburgh?

Plan your trip around the food. Lyla is phenomenal and for a more intimate dining experience I can’t recommend Eorna enough. Leith has lots of hidden gems- a ‘big yin’ fry up from the roseleaf is a monthly must, and Ardfern for lunchtime wine and nibbles is a wonderful treat. I’m also a sucker for a good sandwich so I try to visit the Banh Mi Brothers whenever I’m near town. And obviously a trip to Heron is a must!