Q&A: Klearhos Kanellakis, head sommelier and wine buyer,  Ekstedt at the Yard

Greek by birth and sommelier by choice, the inimitable Klearhos Kanellakis has few peers in the hospitality industry today. He brings a healthy dose of classical rigour and modern flair to our beleaguered on-trade, having carved out a reputation for delivering precise, innovative wine lists that balance pragmatism and excitement. He cut his teeth at London’s 67 Pall Mall, where curating inventories under challenging economic headwinds became almost second nature to this battle-ready sommelier. Grounded in discipline and yet fuelled by curiosity,  Kanellakis pivots between the romantic and the efficacious. After a busy service, he talks to James Lawrence about Oremus Tokaji, underrated Furmint and his take on the cost of living crisis.
 

What vintage are you?

1985 -  a solid year in Bordeaux, and arguably one of Sassicaia’s best.
 

Who, or what, sparked your interest in wine?

It all started with a bottle of Oremus Tokaji – that was the spark. But the real catalyst was Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, who became a role model to me. His knowledge, discipline, and generosity had a huge impact on how I approached wine early on.

Growing up, were there any mentors or cultural influences that helped shape your palate or approach to wine?

[Laughs] In a way. My mother’s family is from Crete, so I have some early memories in the vineyards. But I was raised in Athens, far from wine country. At the time, I actually intended to become a mathematician – wine came later, and completely changed my path.
 

What were some of the early challenges you faced?

There were a few barriers to breaking into the hospitality industry. There weren’t many tastings or fairs to develop your palate. The sommelier scene was still in its infancy, so you had to build knowledge independently, often without much access to the outside wine world.
 

You've worked across various restaurants and wine-focused roles – what moments in your career have been the most defining?

Working at 67 Pall Mall was key. I met an incredible number of producers from all over the world, all sharing their wines and perspectives. Since moving to London a decade ago, I’ve travelled widely and met people who constantly challenge and inspire me. It’s not a single moment, but rather a long thread of encounters that shape you.

What would you say has been the biggest shift in your philosophy or approach to wine over the years?

I’ve moved away from stories that overpower the wine. Now I focus on how the wine tastes, not what it claims to be. I respect people who let their wines speak for them, rather than talking over the glass.

What trends are driving wines sales in summer 2025 – what are people requesting?

German Riesling and Assyrtiko (a Greek white grape) are in high demand – people want freshness, structure, and a bit of edge. Interestingly, Sancerre seems to be losing momentum. It’s still around, but the energy has shifted.

Are there any under-the-radar wine regions or grape varieties you’re currently excited about?

Absolutely! Furmint, in every style, is incredibly versatile. I’m also drawn to northern Rhône whites, modern reds from Galicia and Rioja and, for New World lovers, Margaret River Chardonnay – which consistently delivers complexity and restraint.

In the wake of the government's controversial budget, how do you think the UK hospitality industry is coping, especially in terms of rising overheads and issues like staff retention?

It’s a tightrope. Everything needs precise budgeting – staffing, inventory, pricing. There’s very little room for error, and creativity is often constrained by cost.

Finally, what is the reality of delivering hospitality in such difficult times?

There has been a shift in consumer behaviour: guests are spending more on food than wine, and their overall budgets are tighter. That forces us to create genuinely exciting wine lists at every price point. Staffing is another big issue. We need to make the sommelier profession dynamic and aspirational again to bring new people in. It’s not just about wine knowledge – it’s about energy, generosity and presence.