Q&A: Leonardo Barlondi, assistant head of wines, The Dorchester, London

Sommelier Leonardo Barlondi seems to have wine in his veins: born within touching distance of Chianti, his early exposure to viticulture and hospitality laid the groundwork for a lifelong passion for wine, and a career defined by risk-taking and an insatiable curiosity. A formative stint at the Westin Excelsior Florence, followed by time among some of the UK's best and brightest sommeliers at Maze by Gordon Ramsay, imbued Barlondi with a sharp sense of customer delivery, tempering classical training with a passion for exploration. Now assistant head of wines at The Dorchester, he combines a deep-rooted Italian sensibility – with Schiava and Etna Rosso  among his favourite guest surprises – with the internationalism demanded by one of the capital's most generously stocked cellars. The result is an electric, balanced wine programme that appeals equally to novices and budding oenophiles with a taste for the esoteric.  But does he have any wisdom to offer raw recruits entering the intense world of hospitality? James Lawrence finds out.
 

Where did you grow up?

I grew up in a town called Impruneta, just south of Florence, in Italy, which is known for the production of terracotta, from tiles to vases. It is also home to Artenova, one of the world’s leading clay amphorae makers.

Who - or what - convinced you to pursue a career in wine and hospitality?

It's a combination of multiple factors, like growing up right next to Chianti, working alongside the sommelier at the Westin Excelsior in Florence and having the chance to work in a team of 10 top sommeliers at Maze by Gordon Ramsay.

As your career developed, which experiences most challenged your palate and perspective, and how did they influence the way you approach wine today?

Working mostly with sommeliers, the focus is often on a certain vision of wine. On the other hand, I really appreciate tasting and learning from winemakers, whether from tank or barrel, and gaining insight into the oenological perspectives they share during the visits to the winery. This really helps to expand my knowledge of wines.

When it comes to building or evolving a great wine list, what advice can you offer – do you start with producer relationships, guest demand, margin considerations, or all of the above?

At the moment, I put our guests first. I need to respect their tastes; the list is mainly built around their demand, while price is also a very important factor, especially these days. The list is also shaped by personal choices of wines from lesser-known appellations or unusual styles, which makes our job more fun when we have the opportunity to introduce these wines to more adventurous guests. I think every destination has its own story, which should align with the wine offer. The list is developed with the help of the sommelier team, through meetings with wine producers and when each of us returns from tastings or wine trips with something exciting.

Are there any regions, styles, or producers you feel are currently underappreciated but deserve greater visibility on premium wine lists?

Madeira should have greater visibility among consumers, although it is unfortunately still associated with cooking; Bairrada, Dão, Colares, Naoussa, and Etna wines are still underdogs, and they deserve greater recognition.

Sustainability and provenance are increasingly part of the conversation - how are these factors influencing your buying decisions, and do guests actively respond to them?

Our priority is quality first. Sustainability is very important, but not our main buying factor, although I appreciate wineries moving in that direction. Provenance is also important when it comes to our selection, as we are always looking for wines with a strong sense of place and a story behind them.

Who are your heroes in wine?

I remember meeting Gérard Basset briefly; despite his greatness, he impressed me with his simplicity, modesty and warmth. Steven Spurrier for promoting blind tastings, and Greg Lambrecht, whose innovation has allowed wine professionals to improve their skills and enhanced wine programmes in many ways.

Favourite wine destination in London (apart from Dorchester)?

Noble Rot.

Finally, how do you relax after busy service?

I might switch off by watching sports highlights from the day or by listening to music while walking home.