Q&A: Matteo Furlan, Head of Wines, The Dorchester London

After a spell at J Sheekey, Roka and The Ritz, where he spent six years, Matteo Furlan was appointed Head of Wines at The Dorchester in April 2023. He talks to James Lawrence about compiling a world-beating list, Dry January, and meeting our late Queen.

What was your first job in the industry?

I was very young when I started working as a chef at my grandparents’ hotel. I quickly realised that working in the kitchen wasn’t my thing. I still love cooking but only as a hobby. Coming from a little town in the outskirts of Venice I started working in 5-star establishments when I was 16 and I quickly got into good wines.

You have worked at some of London's most prestigious addresses - what are the essential ingredients in a standout list?

I believe there is no fixed recipe to create an incredible list. A good sommelier should understand the establishment, the clientele and provide them with the best experience. I like to have a team approach when creating wine list. Team members should be involved in the decision-making process; blind tasting to evaluate and select wines is fundamental. I like to work closely with wineries and winemakers in order to create a unique wine collection and offer wines that can deliver quality at any price point.

How do you feel about wine bibles: outdated anachronisms or an essential part of fine dining restaurants?

I love the idea of a wine bible. I like the structure and the organisation of it. When you are managing a list of over 1000 references you need structure. As a guest I prefer a list categorised by country and producers instead of grapes or flavour profiles. I am a bit old school and still love feeling the paper of a book, I am not really a fan of iPads.

What wines/styles are hot at the moment?

There is a growing interest among wine drinkers in exploring local and indigenous grape varieties. Consumers are increasingly seeking out unique and exciting wines from lesser-known regions around the world, appreciating the value and distinctiveness they offer. Greek wines, particularly those made from Assyrtiko and Xinomavro grapes, have been gaining popularity, as have wines from Sicily's Nerello on the slopes of Mount Etna and Hungary's Furmint grape which I believe is a great alternative to Burgundy whites. Meanwhile, English wines have seen an increase in demand, with guests often choosing to celebrate special occasions with a bottle of locally produced sparkling wine.

We're living through a cost-of-living crisis - what is the best way to encourage customers to trade up in this difficult context?

I believe guests should be guided in their wine selection process and not forced by the sommelier. Often I see sommeliers pushing guest to choose what they like, we should always remember that wine is a personal affair and we all have different preferences and taste. Sommeliers and wine professionals should help the guest enjoy what they like. Creating trust in their relationship with the public will always help to trade up.

Who are your heroes?

My hero is my grandfather who sadly past away this past summer. He has given me the strength to achieve my objectives, he has been an example of what hard work means. He left his home country to go to work in Switzerland when he was 18, and after 10 years abroad he came back to start building his own hotel from scratch. He has managed this successfully for over 40 years!

Who was your most memorable guest?

I met many famous guests during my career but having the privileged of serving her majesty Queen Elizabeth II is something I won’t easily forget!

Dry January or wine January?

I don’t believe in Dry January to be honest. I might be boring but I think that if wine is enjoyed in moderation it won't harm you, like many things in life. But for the supporters of Dry January we have created a great selection of non-alcoholic alternatives, from mocktails, beers, sparkling, and still wines.